It was really a quiet night. Despite falling asleep early in the evening, we both pretty much slept until 0500. I got up around 0615, made coffee and started making the boat ready to leave at first light. A quick shot of coffee for both of us and we upped anchor. Underway at 0720 Donna eased us out of the creek and back into the ICW.
The morning was cloudy and a little cool, but a little warmer than the day before. Around 1100, the clouds had cleared, the wind had clocked around to the south and the day began warming nicely. By 1200, we were both out of our jackets and gloves.
The day was a typical SC cruising experience. You are either going pretty fast with the current or fighting to make headway. Unfortunately we arrived at the Ashepoo-Coosaw Cut a half hour before dead low tide. Transit wasn’t too bad until we reached the southern end and entered the Coosaw River. Depth gauge was reading 4.6’ to 4.9’ and we were going slow which made the experience agonizing long.
We continued on to Beaufort, SC, where we passed through the Ladies’ Island Bridge. As we passed the anchorage area off Beaufort, we saw the English couple we dined with in Dowry Creek and Morehead City. They came on deck and waved as we passed and continued on to Port Royal and Battery Creek. We arrived at near the top of the tide and anchored just past the shrimp boat docks where three sailboats were on moorings. We anchored in 18’ of water and about 10 kt of breeze. Hopefully this place will be as quiet and pleasant as last night’s anchorage.
Today’s Tech Stuff:
Location: Port Royal, SC on Battery Creek, South of Beaufort, SC, MM542
Started: 0720 Stopped: 1600
Distance Traveled: 48 mi, Max spd: 8.7, Avg spd: 5.4
Total Distance Traveled to Date: 542 Statute Miles
Day 21, November 28, 2009
Timing the departure for an easy ride through Elliott’s Cut meant we could sleep in and enjoy a nice breakfast. We pulled out of the slip and headed down the Ashley River about 1100 hrs. A short way into Wappoo Creek we had to wait for the bridge opening. It was there we met up with another couple who had been at Dowry Creek during our stay. We fell in behind them and followed them through the cut.
The morning was cool and it took a while for the sun to warm things a little. With the short day, we could only hope to make about 30 miles or so and I had picked out an anchorage at about that distance. We had to negotiate a few skinny water areas along the way, but for the most part the day was a little boring.
We finally reached Tom Point Creek around 1600. We slowed down and eased our way into the creek. Another sailboat followed us in. We talked on the VHF and found neither one of us had used this anchorage before. About a half mile inside the creek, we found a spot we liked and dropped the hook. The other boat went about 200 yards further and did the same.
As soon as the engine stopped, Buddy was ready to go on deck and check things out. He’s developed a new thing which scares Donna and I both. He goes forward, turns and runs toward the dodger, leaps up on the dodger, then leaps to the bimini and comes to a screeching halt just before he reaches the back of the bimini. If he ever overshoots, my only hope is he sails into the dinghy hanging on the stern.
We both fell asleep in the salon about 2000. I woke up and got us both into the vberth around 2030.
Today’s Tech Stuff:
Location: Tom Point Creek, North of Beaufort, SC, MM495
Started: 1100 Stopped: 1615
Distance Traveled: 28 mi
Total Distance Traveled to Date: 495 Statute Miles
The morning was cool and it took a while for the sun to warm things a little. With the short day, we could only hope to make about 30 miles or so and I had picked out an anchorage at about that distance. We had to negotiate a few skinny water areas along the way, but for the most part the day was a little boring.
We finally reached Tom Point Creek around 1600. We slowed down and eased our way into the creek. Another sailboat followed us in. We talked on the VHF and found neither one of us had used this anchorage before. About a half mile inside the creek, we found a spot we liked and dropped the hook. The other boat went about 200 yards further and did the same.
As soon as the engine stopped, Buddy was ready to go on deck and check things out. He’s developed a new thing which scares Donna and I both. He goes forward, turns and runs toward the dodger, leaps up on the dodger, then leaps to the bimini and comes to a screeching halt just before he reaches the back of the bimini. If he ever overshoots, my only hope is he sails into the dinghy hanging on the stern.
We both fell asleep in the salon about 2000. I woke up and got us both into the vberth around 2030.
Today’s Tech Stuff:
Location: Tom Point Creek, North of Beaufort, SC, MM495
Started: 1100 Stopped: 1615
Distance Traveled: 28 mi
Total Distance Traveled to Date: 495 Statute Miles
Day 16 - 20, November 23-27, 2009 (Revised)
We’ve been “chillin”, literally. In addition we’ve been entertained by TV, the internet and checking out the mega yachts here. While walking the docks, we found a couple we met during our stay at Dowry Creek. They are from Maryland but are wintering over here at the City Dock. We met and chatted with them a couple of times. Donna took a trip into downtown for some art supplies and a few groceries. It’s good she did as the marina is closed today.
It’s about 0830 and I do see a little sun trying to peek through. Today’s plan is to do a walkabout, have our T-day dinner aboard and do final prep for departure tomorrow. Oops. Time for the walkabout. More to follow.
On Friday we just took it easy in the morning. We had planned to leave, but decided to join the crazies and visit the shopping district. We walked to downtown around 1400 and found the sidewalks full of shoppers and tourists. We walked King and Meeting Streets stopping in a few shops. Around 1630 we took a break and enjoyed a couple of brews. We decided to call the marina for a van pickup only to discover both of us had left our phones in the boat. The waitress loaned us her cell and we called for a ride back. Once back we both took naps and then watched a little late TV.
The plan tomorrow, Saturday, is to time our departure for the ride through Elliott’s Cut, enter the Stono River and continue southward. With luck we should be out of SC and into GA in a couple of days. Stay tuned as more is to come.
Day 16 - Monday November 23, 2009
It was a long night! Most of the night I laid awake on the settee listing to the wind howling in the rigging. When I did fall asleep, it wasn’t for long and then I would get up and check to make sure the anchor was holding.
Sometime between 0300 and 0500, the wind died down some and I slept a little. The “Buddy” alarm didn’t let me sleep too much though. That cat’s stomach would give an atomic clock a run at accuracy tolerances.
Since we are only 17 miles south of Charleston we delay departure to time the arrival, take advantage of the slack tide in the harbor and hopefully let the fog clear out. We get underway about 0840 with only about a 1 mile visibility. I’m trying to time the arrival at the infamous Ben Sawyer Bridge for at 1000 opening.
As we are putt-putting along, the big sailboat from the anchorage passes me and continues onward toward the bridge. To my surprise, the bridge opens and he continues on. I quickly call the bridge and find out they are “on request”…. so much for timing the arrival.
We speed it up, clear the bridge and continue on to Charleston Harbor. Did I mention the fog? Well, it didn’t get better, it got worse. Thank goodness for the chart plotter. The visibility is now less than a quarter mile which is not good in a busy harbor with two main shipping channels. I take us on a course through the commercial anchorage area and setup a quick run across the main channel. From there I paralleled the second channel for a while and then made a quick jump across it into the smaller channel going up the Ashley River.
We arrive at the Charleston City Marina at 1215 and are directed to the first slip on the “J” dock. This is the same slip we spent 5 days in June 2008. Slack tide made it much easier to dock than the last time.
Once we docked, I jumped on two high priority maintenance issues. We discovered our port running light was out while coming through the harbor. A lamp change was an easy fix. The other problem was a screw holding the companion way hinge plate pulled out of the fiberglass. This kept the door form closing properly. It took a bit of effort, but through bolting the hinge will keep that problem from coming back.
After a quick cleanup of the boat and ourselves and we headed for the shuttle stop to take the van downtown for pizza and beer. We went to a favorite we discovered in 2008, the Mellow Mushroom. The food was great and we stuffed ourselves.
By the time we got back to the boat it was already dark so we settled in for the evening. Tonight I will sleep for sure.
Today’s Tech Stuff:
Location: Charleston City Marina, Charleston, SC MM469
Started: 0840 Stopped: 1215
Distance Traveled: 17 mi
Total Distance Traveled to Date: 469 Statute Miles
Sometime between 0300 and 0500, the wind died down some and I slept a little. The “Buddy” alarm didn’t let me sleep too much though. That cat’s stomach would give an atomic clock a run at accuracy tolerances.
Since we are only 17 miles south of Charleston we delay departure to time the arrival, take advantage of the slack tide in the harbor and hopefully let the fog clear out. We get underway about 0840 with only about a 1 mile visibility. I’m trying to time the arrival at the infamous Ben Sawyer Bridge for at 1000 opening.
As we are putt-putting along, the big sailboat from the anchorage passes me and continues onward toward the bridge. To my surprise, the bridge opens and he continues on. I quickly call the bridge and find out they are “on request”…. so much for timing the arrival.
We arrive at the Charleston City Marina at 1215 and are directed to the first slip on the “J” dock. This is the same slip we spent 5 days in June 2008. Slack tide made it much easier to dock than the last time.
Once we docked, I jumped on two high priority maintenance issues. We discovered our port running light was out while coming through the harbor. A lamp change was an easy fix. The other problem was a screw holding the companion way hinge plate pulled out of the fiberglass. This kept the door form closing properly. It took a bit of effort, but through bolting the hinge will keep that problem from coming back.
After a quick cleanup of the boat and ourselves and we headed for the shuttle stop to take the van downtown for pizza and beer. We went to a favorite we discovered in 2008, the Mellow Mushroom. The food was great and we stuffed ourselves.
By the time we got back to the boat it was already dark so we settled in for the evening. Tonight I will sleep for sure.
Today’s Tech Stuff:
Location: Charleston City Marina, Charleston, SC MM469
Started: 0840 Stopped: 1215
Distance Traveled: 17 mi
Total Distance Traveled to Date: 469 Statute Miles
Day 15 - Sunday November 22, 2009
What's that noise? Oh yeah, it's an real alarm clock, not the usual "Buddy alarm". I set the infernal thing so we could get an early run out of Jericho Creek. The mouth of the creek appeared to be shoaled in more than what I remembered of the 2007 trip. I wanted to be out before the tide reached full low, plus it would give us some push down to Georgetown, SC and Winyah Bay.
Despite the 0530 alarm, it was 0715 before we raised the anchor. We eased over the bar at the creek entrance with a couple of feet to spare and headed southward. We rode the tide boost a while but lost it as we passed Georgetown.
Seems like cloudy, damp and cold mornings make travel seem slower than it already is. We push on down the Winyah Bay and enter the Esterville Minim Creek Canal. This is another man-made cut that scares the heck out of you at low tide. We’re fortunate to be passing on the rising tide. We have spotty rain as we move through the North and South Santee rivers. The only thing that breaks the monotony is the occasional powerboat wanting to pass us. By the time we are nearing forty miles of travel, the rain is more of a nuisance. The plan was to stop in Graham Creek, but there was real shallow water at the entrance so we decided to proceed on. That decision was met with heavier rain and increased wind, naturally! We pushed on another 12 miles to Whiteside Creek.
One sailboat was already anchored in the prime spot so we went around the bend and attempted to anchor. After two unsuccessful attempts to get the Danforth to set, we moved back to the first leg of the creek and anchored just up stream of the other sailboat. Shortly afterward another sailboat anchored just off the other boat’s stern.
It was raining pretty good and the wind was 15 gusting to 20 knots. This creek is totally exposed with nothing but marsh grass all around. After two failed anchor sets, my anxiety level about our location was maxed out . It was getting dark so we’re stuck with this place.
Today’s Tech Stuff:
Location: Whiteside Creek, SC MM452
Started: 0645 Stopped: 1630
Distance Traveled: 56 mi Avg Speed 6.4 mph
Total Distance Traveled to Date: 452 Statute Miles
Despite the 0530 alarm, it was 0715 before we raised the anchor. We eased over the bar at the creek entrance with a couple of feet to spare and headed southward. We rode the tide boost a while but lost it as we passed Georgetown.
Seems like cloudy, damp and cold mornings make travel seem slower than it already is. We push on down the Winyah Bay and enter the Esterville Minim Creek Canal. This is another man-made cut that scares the heck out of you at low tide. We’re fortunate to be passing on the rising tide. We have spotty rain as we move through the North and South Santee rivers. The only thing that breaks the monotony is the occasional powerboat wanting to pass us. By the time we are nearing forty miles of travel, the rain is more of a nuisance. The plan was to stop in Graham Creek, but there was real shallow water at the entrance so we decided to proceed on. That decision was met with heavier rain and increased wind, naturally! We pushed on another 12 miles to Whiteside Creek.
One sailboat was already anchored in the prime spot so we went around the bend and attempted to anchor. After two unsuccessful attempts to get the Danforth to set, we moved back to the first leg of the creek and anchored just up stream of the other sailboat. Shortly afterward another sailboat anchored just off the other boat’s stern.
It was raining pretty good and the wind was 15 gusting to 20 knots. This creek is totally exposed with nothing but marsh grass all around. After two failed anchor sets, my anxiety level about our location was maxed out . It was getting dark so we’re stuck with this place.
Today’s Tech Stuff:
Location: Whiteside Creek, SC MM452
Started: 0645 Stopped: 1630
Distance Traveled: 56 mi Avg Speed 6.4 mph
Total Distance Traveled to Date: 452 Statute Miles
Day 14 - Saturday November 21, 2009
Today’s destination? I know I said Jericho Creek, but who knows! To be sure it will be an anchorage some where southward. We take advantage of the shore power and have a nice hot breakfast and too much coffee. We pull away from the pier at 0725 and continue the run through the “Rockpile”. The day is kind of uneventful except for a delay at the Socastee Bridge. It’s supposed to be an on demand bridge, but the bridge tender kept us waiting for almost 30 minutes.
Once past Enterprise Landing, we entered the usually beautiful Wacammaw River. Today some of the beauty was muted. The overcast day and cool temperature made everything seem dreary.
By 1500 we had reached the “where do we stop” decision point. Jericho Creek looked mighty inviting so we pulled off to starboard and entered. A little more shoaling at the mouth, but once we got into the creek the water was deep almost to the banks. We dropped the hook about a half mile up the creek hoping for a quiet evening. A local’s gun range could be heard in the distance and thoughts of the movie “Deliverance” popped into my head. At dusk the range quit and we were alone in the dark.
Today’s Tech Stuff:
Location: Jericho Creek, SC MM395
Started: 0725 Stopped: 1506
Distance Traveled: 43.1 mi Max Speed 7.3 mph
Total Distance Traveled to Date: 395 Statute Miles
Once past Enterprise Landing, we entered the usually beautiful Wacammaw River. Today some of the beauty was muted. The overcast day and cool temperature made everything seem dreary.
By 1500 we had reached the “where do we stop” decision point. Jericho Creek looked mighty inviting so we pulled off to starboard and entered. A little more shoaling at the mouth, but once we got into the creek the water was deep almost to the banks. We dropped the hook about a half mile up the creek hoping for a quiet evening. A local’s gun range could be heard in the distance and thoughts of the movie “Deliverance” popped into my head. At dusk the range quit and we were alone in the dark.
Today’s Tech Stuff:
Location: Jericho Creek, SC MM395
Started: 0725 Stopped: 1506
Distance Traveled: 43.1 mi Max Speed 7.3 mph
Total Distance Traveled to Date: 395 Statute Miles
Day 13 - Friday, Nov 20th, 2009
It was a little cool first thing but it warmed up nicely. We caught the tide right for easy passage of two troublesome inlets, Lockwoods Folly and Shallote Inlets. We motor sailed with the jib and were making good time until we got to Little River Inlet where we met it’s out going current. From there to Barefoot Landing we fought a horrific current. At one point we were reduced to 3.6 mph. Because of the current, we made it to Barefoot Landing an hour and a half later than our original projected arrival. Along the way we saw two shipwrecks from some earlier storm.
We arrived at 1630 and got the next to the last dock space for today. We elected to forego the Outlet Traps and just spend the evening on the boat. After dinner, Donna is watching some TV and I am writing this blog/log entry.
Tomorrow’s destination is Jericho Creek which is off the Waccamaw River south of Myrtle Beach.
Today’s Tech Stuff:
Location: Barefoot Landing, Myrtle Beach, NC MM354
Started: 0830 Stopped: 1630
Distance Traveled: 43 mi
Total Distance Traveled to Date: 358 Statute Miles
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